Loy Krathong

A few of the teachers from my school, as well as
 the various directors up on the float.

Whoa! Two updates in as many days. I must have nothing better to do.

I thought I'd tell you about a particular holiday we celebrate in November - Loy Krathong.

    Loy Krathong literally translates to "float flower-arrangement," and it is essentially that - putting these little arrangements of flowers and plants with candles in them into the water, where they joyfully float and bob up and down. The whole idea is that we are thanking mother nature and forgiving her for making water dirty throughout the year.  The tradition signifies a sort of "rebirth" of nature and allows us to cleanse our sins away.

Leila and Patrick

Madness! The parade begins.

    First, there is a big parade throughout the entire town - a real challenge to the otherwise rather lazy Thai people, who refuse to exercise for any reason.  One of the Thai teachers jokingly told me that after the parade of Loy Krathong, at least 3-4 kilometers, the rest of the year is devoted to relaxing and recuperating enough to be in the next parade.

Of course, some of the more respectable characters - the higher ups and directors of various important establishments - get to ride out the parade on parade floats. But, the general masses of students from schools all over our province and the normal teachers get to do the walking.  The whole town is either participating in the parade itself or showing support from the sidewalks.

Everyone dresses up.

    After the slowly crawling parade finally reaches the park, a loudspeaker calls out whom, or what, the various groups are representing. With that, we are now allowed to light our candles and send the floats adrift.  Thousands of floats take to the water and a beautiful swarm of flickering candles light up the multi-colored flowers and decorations on each float.  Khom Loi, similar to Chinese lantern, ascend to the heavens.  Since Loy Krathong is also a romantic holiday, you are meant to float your arrangement out with someone special.  According to myth, if your floats stay together and reach the middle of the lake, you will have good luck in love. Aren't Thais romantic?

Floats take to the water, and lanterns can be seen above.

Yaya, the Chinese teacher at my school.
Apparently, our floats never got too far.

For more info on Loy Krathong -----> Click!

Details of Teaching

Welcome back! Its been a long time ---

I have been teaching in Isaan for nearly one year now, and without a doubt, it has been amongst the msot eye-opening experiences I have ever been through.  All the students have now finished taking their final exams, the graduating class have been accepted into their separate universities, and I've just one month left before I leave for Australia and continue my adventure around the world. I thought I'd go into some detail about my experience abroad as a teacher.

The average class has about 50 students. That's right, 50. And I have a few with 60.
I teach each class ONCE PER WEEK, for 50 minutes. If you know anything about learning a language, you know that daily practice is a must. Repetition is vital, and one-on-one lessons are very important.

Now, do some basic math and you realize that if I were to spend one-on-one time with my students, I would have less than 1 minute per student, per week.

The only other English practice the students get is from a Thai-English teacher. These teachers are in charge of grammar lessons.  They also have the English level of an 8 year old native-speaker.

This is honestly a shame and is a point in the Thai education system that is a major flaw.  It also means that whatever I was taught in my TEFL course that I completed back in the US would be moot for teaching in such conditions.  Luckily, I am free to teach however I like - the most important thing to my bosses is that I show up for work everyday and take a lot of pictures (no kidding).  So, I spent most of my lessons joking with the kids, playing games that made them use whatever English they knew, and occasionally doing actual work and writing 'tests'.

Students - the first impression you get when you walk into a classroom is that of utter shock: for the shear amount of kids and for how they react to seeing a foreigner. This is northeast Thailand, a region known as Isaan (ee-sahn).  Foreigners are scarce, and some younger people are absolutely, petrified scared of me.

Luckily, most students are eager enough to want to meet me and get to know this tall, strange looking creature from a far away planet.  This was true even of my youngest students, which are 10-12 years old, some of whom had never seen a foreigner before.  But, it did not take long to establish a friendship with every one of my students.

I found this on my student's facebook page . . .

After one semester of teaching that was cut short due to a rather terrible motorcycle accident, I returned for a second semester at my school.  This was actually not what I had originally planned to do: When I first came to Sakon Nakhon I established that one semester would be plenty and that I should go somewhere else for a second semester.  However, after the way the staff and students took care of me after the accident, I just couldn't leave them behind so quickly. So I resigned my contract with AYC and returned to Thatnaraiwittaya.

A second semester in Sakon Nakhon was exactly what I needed.  After a long break from teaching, even I was eager to see my students and actually do some teaching. A fellow teacher came up with the brilliant idea of creating zombies with his children - he allowed me to steal his ideas- so I decided to let my younger students create aliens.  These aliens would eventually have little biographies - simple stuff like what they liked to eat, where they came from, how old they were, etc.  The kids loved this idea and we spent 2 months creating aliens.  I wanted to sit down with them and make my own alien too! (Unfortunately, I can't find any pictures of some of the really impressive aliens - I'll keep looking and post them up for your amusement when I find them)

Now, a second issue in the Thai education system is the enormous amount of down-time the kids get.  Seriously, every other week we have a day off, or a special day for dancing, or a whole week to play sports, or, my personal favorite, a day long speech about how attending class everyday was vital to education and missing even one lesson had serious consequences. I had to give two of my classes their mid-term exams when their were only 2 weeks left in the semester - the other students had done them over 2 months before that. My students have often complained, even to me, that they rather go to class and learn than have to miss class so often for silly dances and sing-alongs.

Kids spent a full week making "EM-balls"

However, it is hard to complain when you get paid and don't have to work.  In fact, the educational system seems to focus more on students having fun at school.  This is hard to raise an issue with.  Students are hardly under stress until maybe the last 2 years of high school. Tradition is meant to be taught in the schools as well. For an entire week, kids made "EM-balls," or small mud balls that would be sent to flooded regions of Thailand and literally be thrown into the water to help the devastated area.

The school receives a blessing on its 27th birthday. No classes!

David helps kids make Christmas cards - with Buddhist children. No class!

As you can see, there are certainly some pros and some cons to how the Thai school system works. We could get in a long discussion about it, as I have many times with fellow foreign teachers all around Thailand, if you'd like.  However for now, you're just going to have to look at pictures of super happy kids instead.

M-1 students

M-6 students. Seniors

See you here again soon, I swear I'll keep this thing up to date. Maybe.
V

Ko Samui

Ko Samui - off the eastern shore of southern Thailand - is probably best known for its beach resorts, breathtaking waterfalls, and wild nightlife. After settling into a small hotel near the Lawana district, I quickly ran over to the beach - I had been missing the beautiful weather and day trips to the beach that I would normally be enjoying back in NJ.  The water in the Gulf is pristine - you can go on a scuba dive and check out the coral or just swim to the smaller reefs and check out brightly colored fishies for yourself.  Jet ski's fly across the water, muay thai boxers train in front of foreigners, and if you need to relax spend 100 baht (~$3) for a two-hour massage.  But there is much more to do then just spend all day at the beach.  There is plenty to explore -

From waterfalls, elephant trekking, to rock climbing - Ko Samui is an adventure sports enthusiasts dream. It only takes about 2 hours to drive around the entire island, checking out the many beaches along the way, most of which are crowded.  But the quite kind are there for those who know where to look, and better yet, the interior is practically uninhabited and offers plenty of hiking. 

After a long day of exploring my favorite way to 'relax' is by going out for a few (dozen) beers.  Okay, there isn't much relaxing involved really, but you can't come to Ko Samui and not check out the nightlife.  Considering I visited the island during the low season rather than the high season (Nov - Apr), the streets were 'empty.'  At least, that's what the locals called it.  It reminded me of Times Square on New Years Eve.  The bars were almost entirely packed with tourists from all over the world and of every age.  Then there are a few locals and most of those are "working" girls.  Selling sex is illegal in Thailand, but that hasn't stopped anybody. Walk into just about any place open after 10 pm and you hear offers.  A nod of the head and they will usually leave you alone, if not right away maybe after you buy them a drink.  Note: the ones that speak perfect English are most likely ladyboys.

Directions are so useful when given in a foreign language!

The locals all have one thing in common - they are quite friendly. Even those who don't know a single word of English will go out of their way to help you or make you feel at home.  It reigns true throughout nearly all of Thailand.  After my ride unexpectedly decided to leave me behind, I had to figure out how to make my way 1,500 km back to my town.  Thank you Ae and friends for not only trying to explain how to do so in Thai but also giving me a lift to the ferry!

Ladyboys are people too - just really scary ones

Old English bloke who didn't think talking to
a girl 1/4 of his age was in anyway picture worthy

Croc I encountered while hiking. Watch your step!

If you do plan on visiting Ko Samui, or any of the Thai islands for that matter, keep in mind that the high season is between November and April.  While the weather is better, the beaches are more crowded and the prices of things triple.  My hotel, right on the beach, cost only 300 baht a night.  That included a TV that was never turned on, A/C that likewise collected dust, a bed and a shower.  Amenities such as a comfy bed, towels, western style toilets, etc. will cost you more, and during the high season even with drastically higher prices it can be difficult to find vacancies.

Bung Khan, Pu Tok

Dirty water, myself, and Laos on the far side

Suitable living for a monk

It's been a little while, but only because I've kept busy. My weeks are crazy occupied with school, but I've gotten opportunities to travel quite a bit.  One of my first weekends in Isan I followed another teacher, John, up to Bung Khan to relax in a tiny little ton on the Mekong River, overlooking Laos.  While farmers in Thailand were shooting rockets into the air to make it rain behind us, across the Mekong a magnificent display of a thunderstorm lit up the sky-

Start

I've been in Sakon Nakhon, Thailand, for only a few days so far.  I'm still learning the ropes on how to live here, but one thing that's certain is that you can live on very little money up here in the Northeast.  The weather is hot everyday, and while other have told me it rains everyday, so far it only rained for about 10 minutes once, today actually.

I've only taken a few pictures yet, mostly of Bangkok - but let's have a look!

One day three of us hopped on a river ferry and took it as far as we could. 14 Baht and about an hour later we were at all points south - a section of Bangkok called Nonthunburi.  No surprise, there was a giant market! A very cool one though - we walked into a virtual maze of what was a local Thai food market.  Anything you could imagine would fit in your stomach was being sold here! And plenty of things you would never want anywhere near your stomach.

Small boat passes our ferry as we move along the Chang
to Northern Bangkok - Nonthunburi

Last stop!

Slithery and slimy - not the scariest food we found

Catfish and eels

Unfortunately - not a live person! Part of a mini-temple,
ones that locals set up randomly on the side of the street.

We'd heard a lot about Wat Arun - or The Temple of Dawn.  It was only a quick ferry ride across the river from where we were staying.  Three of us paid 3 baht a piece to cross the river and check this very cool temple out.  The steps were super steep getting to the top, and this may have been the hottest day ever.

Really friggin steep! Emphasis on CLIMBing the stairs.

View from atop Wat Arun.  We never did figure
out what the green plants were doing floating in the river.

Central Bangkok

Gotta get down somehow.

Kyle and Peter getting in the shade.

I thought he was studying scrolls of ancient Buddhist magic
- nope, just algebra homework. 

Reminds me of the old tree we had in front of Mom and Dad's house.
We filled it with cement, but they just stuck a big rock in it!

Donations! Flowers, Candles, Food, and of course, Money gladly accepted.

Another day, another market - This time the Chatuchak (Jatujak) weekend market. Of course my camera died before I could get too deep into this one - but this place was bizarre.  It was like going to Sears, Shoprite, and a carnival all in one small park.  Tiny little alleyways connecting the major semicircles that you see below.  But the alleyways proved to have even more incredible things going on - the smallest of shops crammed into the tiniest of places - and then even the alleyways interlocked to find more room for shops of all sorts.

Semicircle 1

Semicircle 2. 

Add caption

A little kiosk devoted to billions of beads.

While in Bangkok I spent my nights near Khao San (Kaosarn) Rd.  It's a backpackers joint.  The locals know how to scam the foreigners, you meet people mostly traveling RTW on low budgets, but at night time the place went wild.  You can't walk ten feet without being proposed to go to the "Ping Pong Show" or be asked to buy a new, custom made suit just for you.  And the music of choice at the bars and clubs - Korean pop.  No idea.

Hookah-ing near Khaosarn.

And within a week and a half I was off to Sakon Nakhon. Like I said earlier, still learning about this place.  More pictures to come! Until then, you can see my room that I pay 3000 baht a month for.  Frankly, I can find cheaper once my Thai speaking ability improves.

Stray dogs! Very popular all over Thailand, but these are
super-friendly and bark when strangers come by.

My jungle of a backyard.